Knowing about Chateau Musar takes more than a sip or a glassful, however fascinating the taste of that wine might prove to be. To know Chateau Musar takes an understanding of terroir, of natural winemaking, of human nature and of history. All of these factors have a powerful influence over the way the wine appears in the glass – how it tastes, smells, lives, breathes and changes.
The story of Musar’s survival during the Lebanese civil war of 1975 to 1990 is well documented. It was a formative time for the wine and for its creator, Serge Hochar, who was only just beginning to trust his grapes (as he famously said) to ‘become what they wanted to be’. From 1975, he had no choice. They were harvested when the shelling paused; their transit to the winery took as long as avoiding militia check-points permitted (sometimes days), and winemaking could only happen when the coast road was clear and Serge could reach the winery. And yet the war is only a tiny part of the history that makes these wines what they are.
2017 – An equal blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Carignan
Each varietal was fermented with natural yeasts in concrete vats, then aged for 12 months in French Nevers oak barrels before blending in early 2020 and bottled without fining or filtration during the summer months. All the wines proved very aromatic and in particular the last Cabernet Sauvignon picked, showed for the first time, aromas and taste of exotic fruits and even guava. Malolactic fermentation finished by 1st November and preliminary tastings showed that 2017 is a different year with more structure and power, reminding us of 2007, 1997 and 1987 vintages, as if it was a decade style.
The 2017 vintage looks to be very promising indeed, the wines of this year are unique, yet retaining classical Chateau Musar character. Three factors come to mind, the similarity in style of the different decades ending in 7, the taste of the last vineyard of Cabernet Sauvignon harvested and powerful aromas. It has a bright ruby colour and there are sweet red cherries, mulberries and plums on the nose with a hint of tea tree and liquorice. The tannins are soft and well-integrated and this vintage has good acidity, depth of fruit and a long finish. Cellared well, it will age beautifully for decades.
2018 – An equal blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Carignan
Each varietal was fermented with their natural yeasts in concrete vats, then aged for 12 months in French Nevers oak barrels before blending in January 2021. Fermentation of the red grapes this year was challenging: Cabernet Sauvignon was first due to the earlier harvest date and was easy to manage, while Cinsault and Carignan needed more attention with their fermentations closely monitored to finish the last gram of grape sugar. Malolactic fermentations for these two grapes were still pending 3 months after the beginning of the harvest as a reminder of the very delicate fermentation and exceptional Cinsault behaviour.
This vintage was bottled, without fining or filtration, during the summer months of July and August 2021.
The 2018 vintage has a deep garnet colour in the glass with dried cherries and mature red fruits on the nose. The palate is rich and concentrated with cranberries, raisins, and dates; there is good acidity with fine tannins. It has an enticing smokey, dusty fruit with soft liquorice undertones and at 6 years of age upon release, it is already developed and mature.
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Produced naturally with a non-interventionist wine making philosophy. The first winery in Lebanon to implement organically certified viticulture.