Silvano Bolmida crafts his Barolo with all the skill of a consummate winemaker but this skill is backed up by an almost forensic attention to detail and a desire to learn empirically from what happens in his vineyards and winery; reflecting in his excellent wines. Starting his own venture in 1999 with a few hectares he took over from his father and brother-in-law. His first release was in 2003.
He is based in Montforte d’Alba and cultivates his vineyards with environmental concerns very much to the fore, though he seeks no organic certification. His five hectares of Bussia vines are on back-breaking slopes. He works every inch personally, nurturing, observing and improving everything from the cover crops and canopy management to green harvesting in June and the manual harvesting of the grapes in September and October.
In the cellars he ferments for a long time with skin contact, resulting not in over-extracted tannic wines but in wines of finesse and smooth tannins that support the fruit without dominating, even in youth. A year in small oak barrels is followed by two in 3,000-litre botti before bottling without filtration. 14 months in bottle ensues and the wines are approachable even on release but have the structure to age beautifully. Only 6,000 bottles of the Barolo Bussia are produced from just under 14,000 square metres, a tiny amount that speaks volumes about the low yields and the attendant perfectionism of Silvano Bolmida.
The Barolo, Bussia Vigna dei Fantini is dark, powerful and beguiling and a very impressive wine from the excellent 2016 vintage. Sumptuous and beautifully layered – a Barolo of considerable charm. The 2016 is quite forward and drinking well now but will also continue to develop and reward cellaring.
This wine opens with wafts of white pepper, sour cherry, black peppercorn, cranberry and liquorice. The Nebbiolo shows as layers of cranberry, raspberry, pomegranate, liquorice, dried thyme, cedar wood and a little clove spice. There is a nice balance of acidity and tannins. A very satisfying wine which really benefits from decanting.
